The washing line method isn’t exactly new, but it’s one of those techniques that far too many UK stillwater anglers overlook in favour of more fashionable approaches. I reckon that’s a mistake, because when the trout are feeding at multiple depths or suspending in the middle layers, this setup can absolutely save your day.
Gear Used in This Article
The basic idea is simple enough. You’re essentially creating a vertical curtain of flies at different depths between your fly line and the lakebed. Think of it like actual washing hung out to dry, with your flies spaced along the leader at various intervals. The beauty of this approach is that you’re covering several depth zones simultaneously, which means you’re fishing more effectively when you’re not quite sure where the trout are holding.
Setting up a washing line rig takes a bit more thought than slapping three flies on a leader and hoping for the best. I start with a floating line and a long leader, usually around 18 to 20 feet. The key is getting your point fly down deep, so I’ll typically use a weighted pattern like a Diawl Bach or a small goldhead nymph. From there, I’ll add a middle dropper about eight feet up the leader with something like a Cruncher or a Hare’s Ear. The top dropper sits just a few feet from the fly line, and this is where I like to fish a buoyant pattern or even a small dry fly.
The spacing matters more than you might think. If your droppers are too close together, you’re just fishing a narrow band of water. Spread them out properly and you’re genuinely searching different levels. I’ve had days on the reservoir where the fish were completely fixated on flies at a specific depth, and having that coverage meant I found them while others were still scratching their heads.
Retrieving a washing line setup requires a different mindset to your standard loch-style approach. You want a slow, steady figure-of-eight retrieve most of the time. This keeps everything moving naturally through the water column without racing your deep fly back to the surface too quickly. On calm days, I’ll sometimes let the whole rig sit static for thirty seconds between retrieves. You’d be surprised how often a trout will intercept a fly that’s just hanging there doing absolutely nothing.
Wind direction plays a bigger role with this method than many anglers realise. A decent ripple helps disguise your leader and adds movement to your flies, but too much wind and you’ll struggle to maintain depth control. I find the washing line works best in light to moderate conditions when you can keep a nice steady drift without your flies skating across the surface.
One thing I’ve learned over the years is not to be rigid about fly choice. Yes, traditional wets and nymphs work brilliantly, but don’t be afraid to mix things up. I’ve had tremendous success with a small blob or FAB on the top dropper when the fish are looking up. For the middle dropper, something like these proven stillwater patterns (https://amzn.to/4dbkzUH) can make all the difference when the trout are being selective.
The washing line method also excels during those frustrating periods when fish are showing but refusing everything on the surface. While everyone else is flogging away with dry flies, you can be fishing just beneath the film with your top dropper while still searching deeper water. I’ve lost count of the number of times this has turned a blank day into a memorable session.
Reading your takes with this setup requires a bit of practice. Sometimes you’ll get a proper thump, but often it’s just a slight draw or a pause in the line. Keep your rod tip low and stay alert. Most importantly, don’t strike too hard. A gentle lift is usually enough to set the hook.
Here’s something to try next time out: if you’re getting short pulls or missed takes, drop your middle dropper down a foot or two. Often the fish are tracking your flies upward and hitting just above where they’re actually feeding. That small adjustment can turn follows into proper hookups.
